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Ordóñez Suárez, D., Higuera Marín, M. E., & Raigoza Díaz, C. (2023). Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto. Kepes, 20(27), 105–144. https://doi.org/10.17151/kepes.2023.20.27.5
Fomatos de Citação
Autores
Daniela Ordóñez Suárez
Universidad Industrial de Santander
Miguel Enrique Higuera Marín
Universidad Industrial de SantanderCarolina Raigoza Díaz
Unidades Tecnológicas de SantanderResumo
La extensión de la vida útil o del tiempo de uso de las prendas de vestir es una forma de enfrentar el incremento del impacto ambiental en la industria de la moda, derivado de la aceleración en la demanda y el descarte de los productos. El objetivo de este estudio fue identificar las variables involucradas en el desuso prematuro de las prendas de vestir casuales con el fin de ser intervenidas por el diseño a lo largo de sus etapas. Esto, a través de un enfoque cualitativo en el que se aplicaron entrevistas a representantes de empresas y consumidoras de la ciudad de Bucaramanga y su área metropolitana, además de observaciones en los entornos de venta digitales de marcas nacionales. Lo anterior, con el fin de identificar las acciones y declaraciones de las marcas en torno a la durabilidad y su relación con los criterios de compra de las consumidoras, así como las motivaciones para la retención y el descarte de prendas de vestir. Los hallazgos muestran que el foco de los esfuerzos de las marcas se encuentra en la robustez de los materiales y la oferta de prendas atemporales basadas en el minimalismo, el uso de técnicas de producción manuales y artesanales, así como la construcción de una identidad estética de marca reconocible. Por su parte, la comodidad representó el principal criterio de compra, y de decisión de retener o descartar una prenda para las consumidoras, mientras que la calidad o robustez no presentó mayor influencia en estos escenarios. Estos resultados permiten visualizar oportunidades para la innovación mediante la aplicación del diseño, a partir de la empatía con el usuario.
Referências
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Capuz-Rizo, S. F. (1999). Introducción al proyecto de producción. Ingeniería concurrente para el diseño de producto. Editorial Universidad Politécnica de Valencia.
Ceballos, L. M. y Min, S. (2020). Product experiences of clothing attachment in baby boomers in the United States. Fashion and Textiles, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-0206-0
Chapman, J. (2009). Design for (Emotional) Durability. Design Issues, 25 (4). http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/25/4/29/1714666/desi.2009.25.4.29.pdf
Chapman, J. (2021). Meaningful stuff: Design that lasts. The MIT Press.
Cobbing, M. y Vicaire, Y. (2016). Timeout for fast fashion Timeout for fast fashion. GREENPEACE.
Connor-Crabb, A., Miller, K. y Chapman, J. (2016). Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New. Fashion Practice, 8(1), 22-43. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1147806
Cooper, T. (2010). Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society. Routledge.
Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. y Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity: Guidance on Increasing the Active Life of Clothing. WRAP Working together for a world without waste.
Cox, J., Griffith, S., Giorgi, S. y King, G. (2013). Consumer understanding of product lifetimes. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 79, 21-29. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.003
Degenstein, L. M., McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., Wakes, S. J. y Dunn, L. A. (2020). Impact of physical condition on disposal and end-of-life extension of clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(6), 586-596. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12590
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Fletcher, K., Grose, Lynda. (2012). Fashion sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King Pub.
Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366
González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.html
Goworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021
INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/
Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127
Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540
Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.org
Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349
Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060
Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699
(López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79
McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026
McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, 27(4), 215-223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2019.07.005
Mink, P., Bay, S., Petrizzi, R. y Gill, P. (2015). The Why of the Buy: Consumer behavior and Fashion Marketing. Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.
Naciones Unidas. (12 de abril de 2019). El costo ambiental de estar a la moda. Noticias ONU. https://news.un.org/es/story/2019/04/1454161
Niinimäki, K. y Armstrong, C. (2013). From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(3), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737
Niinimäki, K. y Koskinen, L. (2011). I love this dress, if makes me feel beautiful! Empathic knowledge in sustainable design. Design Journal, 14(2), 165-186. https://doi.org/10.2752/175630611X12984592779962
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. y Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Orozco, J. A. y Ferré, C. (2012). El ADN de la marca. La concepción de sus valores intangibles en un contexto dialogado. Signo y Pensamiento, 31(61), 56-71.
RADDAR, INEXMODA y SECTORIAL. (2021). Observatorio Sistema Moda Julio 2021.
https://www.inexmoda.org.co/informe-julio-2021/#:~:text=En%20julio%20el%20gasto%20en,el%20mismo%20periodo%20de%202019.
Rathinamoorthy, R. (2019). Circular fashion. Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 13-48.
https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102630-4.00002-9
Saldaña, J. (2009). The coding manual for qualitative researchers. Sage.
Stark, J. (2018). Decision Engineering. Product Lifecycle Management (Volume 3): The Executive Summary. http://www.springer.com/series/5112
UN Fashion Alliance. (2021). The Clothing and Textile Industry Today. https://unfashionalliance.org/
Vijaya, V., Aparanjini, D. y Lahari, G. (2017). Impact of Gender on Consumer Purchasing Behaviour. IOSR-JBM, 19(8), 33-36. DOI: 10.9790/487X-1908053336
Wang, Y., Tian, H., Sarigöllü, E. y Xu, W. (2020). Nostalgia prompts sustainable product disposal. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 19(6), 570-580. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1832
Whitson-Smith, J. (2019). Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 9(1), 109-124. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.1.109_1
Wijetunga, D. (2020). “Throwaway” consumption in a consumerist society: Evidence from a developing country. Business Strategy and Development, 3(1), 55-63. https://doi.org/10.1002/bsd2.78
WRAP. (2017a). Love Your Clothes. https://www.loveyourclohes.org.uk
WRAP. (2017b). Sustainable clothing: a practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality. June.
Zafarmand, S. J., Sugiyama, K. y Watanabe, M. (2003). Aesthetic and Sustainability: The Aesthetic Attributes Promoting Product Sustainability. The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0
BlakSip. (2020). Reporte de la industria: el e-commerce en Colombia 2020.
Brydges, T. (2018). “Made in Canada”: Local production networks in the Canadian fashion industry. Canadian Geographer, 62(2), 238-249. https://doi.org/10.1111/cag.12400
Capuz-Rizo, S. F. (1999). Introducción al proyecto de producción. Ingeniería concurrente para el diseño de producto. Editorial Universidad Politécnica de Valencia.
Ceballos, L. M. y Min, S. (2020). Product experiences of clothing attachment in baby boomers in the United States. Fashion and Textiles, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-0206-0
Chapman, J. (2009). Design for (Emotional) Durability. Design Issues, 25 (4). http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/25/4/29/1714666/desi.2009.25.4.29.pdf
Chapman, J. (2021). Meaningful stuff: Design that lasts. The MIT Press.
Cobbing, M. y Vicaire, Y. (2016). Timeout for fast fashion Timeout for fast fashion. GREENPEACE.
Connor-Crabb, A., Miller, K. y Chapman, J. (2016). Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New. Fashion Practice, 8(1), 22-43. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1147806
Cooper, T. (2010). Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society. Routledge.
Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. y Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity: Guidance on Increasing the Active Life of Clothing. WRAP Working together for a world without waste.
Cox, J., Griffith, S., Giorgi, S. y King, G. (2013). Consumer understanding of product lifetimes. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 79, 21-29. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.003
Degenstein, L. M., McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., Wakes, S. J. y Dunn, L. A. (2020). Impact of physical condition on disposal and end-of-life extension of clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(6), 586-596. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12590
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation e IDEO. (2017). The Circular Design Guide. https:/www.circulardesignguide.com
Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810x12774625387594
Fletcher, K., Grose, Lynda. (2012). Fashion sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King Pub.
Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366
González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.html
Goworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021
INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/
Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127
Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540
Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.org
Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349
Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060
Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699
(López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79
McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026
McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, 27(4), 215-223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2019.07.005
Mink, P., Bay, S., Petrizzi, R. y Gill, P. (2015). The Why of the Buy: Consumer behavior and Fashion Marketing. Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.
Naciones Unidas. (12 de abril de 2019). El costo ambiental de estar a la moda. Noticias ONU. https://news.un.org/es/story/2019/04/1454161
Niinimäki, K. y Armstrong, C. (2013). From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(3), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737
Niinimäki, K. y Koskinen, L. (2011). I love this dress, if makes me feel beautiful! Empathic knowledge in sustainable design. Design Journal, 14(2), 165-186. https://doi.org/10.2752/175630611X12984592779962
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. y Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Orozco, J. A. y Ferré, C. (2012). El ADN de la marca. La concepción de sus valores intangibles en un contexto dialogado. Signo y Pensamiento, 31(61), 56-71.
RADDAR, INEXMODA y SECTORIAL. (2021). Observatorio Sistema Moda Julio 2021.
https://www.inexmoda.org.co/informe-julio-2021/#:~:text=En%20julio%20el%20gasto%20en,el%20mismo%20periodo%20de%202019.
Rathinamoorthy, R. (2019). Circular fashion. Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 13-48.
https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102630-4.00002-9
Saldaña, J. (2009). The coding manual for qualitative researchers. Sage.
Stark, J. (2018). Decision Engineering. Product Lifecycle Management (Volume 3): The Executive Summary. http://www.springer.com/series/5112
UN Fashion Alliance. (2021). The Clothing and Textile Industry Today. https://unfashionalliance.org/
Vijaya, V., Aparanjini, D. y Lahari, G. (2017). Impact of Gender on Consumer Purchasing Behaviour. IOSR-JBM, 19(8), 33-36. DOI: 10.9790/487X-1908053336
Wang, Y., Tian, H., Sarigöllü, E. y Xu, W. (2020). Nostalgia prompts sustainable product disposal. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 19(6), 570-580. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1832
Whitson-Smith, J. (2019). Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 9(1), 109-124. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.1.109_1
Wijetunga, D. (2020). “Throwaway” consumption in a consumerist society: Evidence from a developing country. Business Strategy and Development, 3(1), 55-63. https://doi.org/10.1002/bsd2.78
WRAP. (2017a). Love Your Clothes. https://www.loveyourclohes.org.uk
WRAP. (2017b). Sustainable clothing: a practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality. June.
Zafarmand, S. J., Sugiyama, K. y Watanabe, M. (2003). Aesthetic and Sustainability: The Aesthetic Attributes Promoting Product Sustainability. The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0
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